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6.25.2007

Rosier by the second

I swear, I just don’t know where the days go. I wake up one morning, and it’s Monday. Then, within what I know was only ten minutes, shazam!, it’s Sunday already. It makes me wish there were some sort of Bureau of Missing Days, or something like that. Wherever my time went, I’d like it back immediately. I had plans for it, and awfully good ones too, involving strawberries and waffles and soup and roasted pork, and the sweet, spindly carrots in the crisper drawer. Thank goodness for a new week. All ten minutes of it, anyway. I get to have another go.

Which explains why, this morning, before I had so much as shrugged in the direction of the shower, I fired up the oven and baked a cake. When opportunity peeks its head in the door, you don’t ask it to come back later, after you’ve had a chance to wash your hair. You grab it with an oven mitt and shove it in the oven. You don’t mess around. Especially when there’s a bowl of ripe apricots on the table, getting rosier by the second. A week is best begun, I would argue, with the whirr of the mixer, the gentle slap-slap-slap of butter and sugar becoming batter.



Apricot season has barely begun around here, but I saw a few lovely specimens at the Phinney farmers’ market on Friday, and they begged me to buy them. They didn’t yet have the grandeur of their later-season brethren, fat and filled to the brim with juice, but they were fragrant enough, with faintly rouged cheeks. I bought a half-dozen, planning to eat them on the spot, but then a bushel of Rainier cherries caught my eye, and everybody knows that’s the best thing to munch while strolling the market aisles, and in the end, it was just as well. Apricots, I find, are a fickle little fruit. They’re stupendously good every now and then - Frog Hollow Farm, I’m looking at you - but otherwise, they’re only so-so. Where they’re at their best, I find, is in the oven. There, even a mediocre apricot opens up and blooms, releasing all sorts of sweetness and syrupy juice. So unless I know for certain that I’ve got a real winner, the sort that drips all over when you take a bite, better to steer it into the oven. Preferably atop a dense, buttery cake scented with ground almonds. Which is exactly what I did this morning, in my bathrobe and unwashed hair.

The results were quite delicious, especially after a shower and a lunch of blanched snap peas, thick slices of fresh mozzarella with olive oil and salt, and a goodly hunk of olive fougasse. It didn’t hurt, too, that it made the house smell wholesome and sweet. My mother is coming to town tomorrow for a few days of wedding errands, and our little home - huddled lately under a siege of to-do lists, RSVP cards, and other wedding paperwork - needed some spiff and shine. A freshly baked cake made a fine air freshener, right up there with the bundle of fresh flowers on the kitchen table. Later, of course, there will also be some sweeping, some scrubbing, and some vacuuming, and some more cake. And then, shazam!, it will be Sunday.

Have a great week, friends.



Almond Torte with Sugared Apricots
Inspired by Marion Burros’ “Original Plum Torte

To prepare the ground almonds for this recipe, put about ¼ cup blanched almonds into the bowl of a food processor, and pulse until you have a fine, sandy powder with no large lumps or bits. Some people tell you to be careful with this – that the almonds could turn to almond butter before you know it – but I’ve never had any trouble, and I really process the heck out of mine.

Oh, and if you don’t have almonds lying around, just up the flour to 1 cup. It’s no problem.

For cake:
1/3 cup finely ground blanched almonds
2/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
Pinch of salt
8 Tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs

For topping:
6 ripe apricots, halved and pitted
1-2 Tbsp. granulated sugar

Set an oven rack in the middle position, and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the ground almonds, flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.

In another medium bowl (or the bowl of stand mixer), beat the butter with the sugar until light and fluffy, stopping to scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula as needed. Add the dry ingredients and the eggs and beat to combine, scraping down the bowl as needed. Do not overmix. The batter will be pale yellow and very thick.

Pour and scrape the batter into an ungreased - you want some traction; hence no butter or cooking spray - 9-inch springform pan, and use a rubber spatula to spread it evenly. Arrange the apricots cut-side-up on top of the batter, and sprinkle them with sugar. If they’re particularly sweet, you should only need about 1 tablespoon, but if they’re only so-so, you might want up to two.

Slide the pan into the oven, and bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. Do not overbake. Remove from the oven, and let cool on a wire rack. Run a thin knife around the perimeter of the cake; then release the sides of the pan. Serve at room temperature or slightly warm, preferably with vanilla ice cream or lightly sweetened whipped cream.

Note: Wrapped in plastic wrap and foil, this cake freezes very well. The only trouble is that it’s pretty firmly stuck to the bottom of the springform pan, so you have to freeze that along with it. I’ve yet to find another solution. I’ve tried putting parchment paper on the bottom of the pan before pouring in the batter, but I do not recommend it. Trust me here. The batter is very thick, so when you try to spread it over the bottom of the pan, it slips and slides and drags the parchment all over the place. Not good at all. I say, cross your fingers that you won’t need the pan for a while, and stick it in the freezer. UPDATE: See the comments, below, for handy suggestions. (Thanks, all you helpful readers!)

Yield: 8 servings

59 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Where they really apricots or those things crossed with plums? Not nearly as good.

I had leftover bread from Tall Grass and thought I would make some croutons - somehow they turned into chocolate bread pudding with lots of cinnamon. Now that's a good room freshener.

7:54 PM, June 25, 2007  
Anonymous Gwen said...

This is perfect timing, as I have a bowl full of apricots from the farmers market myself, and while they smell lovely, their texture has been disappointing. Hooray for cake!

Also, I may be missing something, but why not grease the bottom of the springform to prevent sticking?

8:34 PM, June 25, 2007  
Blogger Robyn said...

Hi Molly,

Suggest you try laying the parchment paper over the bottom of the pan's loose bottom, then clip the springform part of the pan over both and the paper will be held tight in place . Next trim the excess parchment which will be poking out from between the bottom and the sides of the pan. No more moving parchement and hopefully you can rescue the bottom before the cake heads to the freezer.

9:34 PM, June 25, 2007  
Blogger Zarah Maria said...

Don't get too stressed, Molly. But then again, with cake in the house, is it even possible to become stressed?

Didn't think so...:)

11:40 PM, June 25, 2007  
Anonymous Natasha said...

How about a silicone cake pan? It would surely slip right out, no problem.

12:51 AM, June 26, 2007  
Anonymous Erika said...

Apricot season is in full bloom here in Geneva, so I have added this to the 'to do list'! Going with Gwen's suggestion, what about greasing and then flouring the bottom of the pan to prevent sticking?

1:46 AM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger hannah said...

why are you doing this to me? tell me. i am trying my absolute hardest to keep my oven off this time of year, but here i am with a lemon cake, chocolate cupcakes, and cinnamon banana bread under my belt. now this? great. i mean how am i supposed to resist stone fruits? i dont think it is possible. i was contemplating a love affair last night with the nectarine ripening on my counter top.

on a bright note, say hi to your mom for me!!

6:33 AM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger wheresmymind said...

When I first read this, I thought you woke up at 10am on Monday! I so wanna work from home!

7:05 AM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger Anali said...

I like the idea of the "Bureau of Missing Days." This summer is just flying by! I do love cake and this one looks just grand. ; )

7:24 AM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger Molly said...

Anonymous, um, well, I feel kind of ridiculous, but I think, at least, that these were apricots. But they could have been those aprium things too. I went to both the Phinney and Ballard markets last week, and between the two of them, I know I saw both fruits. In the case of these, I don't think I even read the sign. I just grabbed and bought. Gah. Oh, and as for Tall Grass, have you tried their olive fougasse? The one I mentioned above is theirs, and it's pretty amazing. Expensive, but amazing.

Gwen, I'm sorry I wasn't more clear about this - I've now added an explanation to the recipe instructions - but you actually want a bit of traction and sticking, which is why you don't want to grease the pan. The batter is very stiff, and you need it to "hold" onto the bottom of the pan as you spread it. I mistakenly greased my pan once, and it was a total mess! Batter slipping everywhere.

Robyn, that's a brilliant idea! I'll have to try it next time, after all these go-rounds of putting the whole thing, base of the pan and all, in the freezer. It sounds as though it could be a little complicated, logistically, and perhaps might require four hands instead of two, but it's a great suggestion. Thank you!

Thanks, sweet Zarah! I'm not too stressed, don't worry. I've got lots of irons in the fire, but it's also lots of fun. xo

Natasha, that's terrific! A silicone cake pan could be just the ticket. It has enough traction, I think, that spreading the thick batter would be no trouble, but it also would make it easy to remove the cake after baking. Love it! Now I just need to buy one...

Ooh, Erika, I love the thought of apricot season in Geneva! It must be lovely. As for greasing the pan, see my reply to Gwen, above.

Ah, but Hannah, you aren't supposed to resist stone fruits! That's the thing, lady! Eat 'em! Bake 'em! And eat some more! You can thank me later. xo

Wheresmymind, I'm not sure what gave you that idea, but actually, come to mention it, you would be right, sir! I *did* wake up that late yesterday. It was only, however, because I was still sort of recovering from a long, 13-hour workday I had on Saturday and a busy Sunday. See, I was working on the weekend, and you had off, so I got to sleep in a bit on Monday, when you were back to work! It all works out. Agreed?

7:27 AM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger Molly said...

Anali, I hear you, girl. From one cake-lover to another, here's to summer!

7:28 AM, June 26, 2007  
Anonymous radish said...

so not only am i on a major apricot kick (i even made a crumble with them and strawberries and will post in the next two days or so), but also, i think it's incredible you just up and bake like that - the cake looks delectable and will now have to be made in my kitchen. which much to my and my boyfriend's chagrin is seeing a lot more baked goods, which adds to the waistline, but doubly adds to the happiness of our household.

7:37 AM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger shari said...

i've got apricots on the brain now. and cake as an air freshener...love your thinking here. ;) xo

7:54 AM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger Alice Q. said...

Hi Molly! Another trick is to stick the parchment down with a couple of little dots of batter, then pour the batter in and spread. The paper will stay stuck, and the batter dots will be like crisp little cookies!

8:36 AM, June 26, 2007  
Anonymous lynn said...

I love your stress reduction methods. Nothing sends a calming message to the brain like the smell of baked goods. And a massage.

Have a grand time with your mother!

8:45 AM, June 26, 2007  
Anonymous Leah said...

Molly, I love that you mentioned Frog Hollow Farm! Their fruit is wonderful, but what I really love (shocker) are their pastries - particularly the gorgeous lemon tart. My mom and I like to go to the Berkeley Farmers' Market and walk along, nibbling on Frog Hollow pastries and sipping on Blue Bottle coffee. In fact, I think I'll be doing just that this Saturday morning. Meanwhile, I know things are nuts with your wedding planning but with you at the helm I know it's all coming together beautifully!

8:48 AM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger Brian Gardunia said...

I will have to try this. We got a bunch of apricots that have the perfect texture, but are a bit tart - perfect for baking. My wife made an apricot galette that was incredible. I will have to use the leftover apricots for this cake.

8:53 AM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger Leanne said...

Just the mention of the olive fougasse made me lusty after Seattle food .. are you mentioning the one from Tall Grass? I used to live in Seattle and have since moved to CT. Reading your blog makes me miss it so much! My husband is somewhere in the air on his way there for a business trip .. I think I may have to convince him to stop at the Wallingford Market to bring me something from Tall Grass (if I can convince him not to watch the Red Sox/Mariners). Enjoy the rest of the wedding planning!

9:26 AM, June 26, 2007  
Anonymous eddybles said...

Having spent several years in Seattle but now an east coast transplant who is not a fan of heat and humidity, I always miss your gorgeous coast most this time of year and appreciate your lovely capture of such an idyllic place. Thanks!

10:57 AM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger Hilda said...

I was going to suggest the same thing about putting the parchment paper on the bottom then clicking the springform pan back on it, it's what I usually do for sticky cakes. That's a lovely sounding recipe and I'm going to try it this weekend.

1:03 PM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger Hillary said...

Molly,
I've said it before, and I'll say it again. You write so well! You can hold on to anyone's interest over a simple story about baking a cake before the week passes by, and I find that impressive! Not to mention, the cake looks uber delicious :)

-Hillary

1:50 PM, June 26, 2007  
Anonymous Meryl said...

Molly,

I'm so obsessed with your banana, chocolate chip, cinnamon and sugar bread that I can hardly handle putting the recipe away for this cake, but, what the heck, the next bunch of bananas isn't quite ripe enough yet... Thanks for the delicious inspirations!

2:41 PM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger pussman said...

hmmmm, looks so good to me. yummi

3:10 PM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger eviedee said...

Stunningly lovely post as usual! Bonus, it makes me feel less weird about cooking up a batch a pickles right along with breakfast this weekend. :) Best of luck with your wedding plans!

3:17 PM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger Victoria said...

I make the Original Plum Torte; I make an apple version of it; now I will make this apricot one because it sounds absolutely delicious. By the way the current Cook's Illustrated has a plum cake that started out with the Original Plum Torte and tweaked it to supposed perfection.

6:53 PM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger One Crabapple said...

Completely delicious looking !

Must try this SOON - thank you !!!

mmm,Love it here !

9:28 PM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger candy said...

i've never been an apricot fan... to be honest, i don't know if i've ever actually eaten one. but this recipe & the pictures have absolutely inspired me to try them!

11:32 PM, June 26, 2007  
Blogger Figs Olives Wine said...

Time does warp into some sort of wormhole - especially leading up to a wedding. Why is that? Regardless, this cake seems like the perfect antidote and a wonderful way of regenerating home, mind, and body. I am now anxiously awaiting apricots over here! Thanks for the gorgeous recipe, Molly!

4:55 AM, June 27, 2007  
Blogger wellunderstood said...

so pretty! I imagine a wedge of this is a perfect outdoor dessert with a glass of sparkling wine!

5:25 AM, June 27, 2007  
Blogger Mercedes said...

Oh how lovely, like my favorite tart without fooling with the crust. I do much the same thing but with pistachios, like this.

5:45 AM, June 27, 2007  
Anonymous Pam said...

Hi, Molly - Gosh, you're good! Loved the writing as well as the message! You're right, time really does slip away when one is busy and engaged! I made almond-flavored clafoutis last weekend from bing cherries I had when I got a similar urge to bake on Sunday. The house smelled great, the neighbors appreciated the piece we shared with them, and my beloved is a clafoutis convert!

9:26 AM, June 27, 2007  
Blogger Kirsten said...

ooh, Molly, you read my mind, i just rescued a rosy basket of cots from ballard! and, my mom is also visiting and loves apricots, so this will be a welcome project for the week!

also -did not know about the phinney market, and love that it is Fridays - great for weekend entertaining! thanks for the tip!!

10:56 AM, June 27, 2007  
Blogger helenjane said...

This morning I bubbled my apricots down to make tonight's ice cream. My husband thought I was insane -- but I fit it in where I can!

2:58 PM, June 27, 2007  
Blogger Linda said...

gorgeous. i adore apricots and come to think of it, haven't had one in quite some time. i love that photography. the apricots are so perfectly placed.

6:16 AM, June 28, 2007  
Blogger Magpie Ima said...

How did you know I'd just bought a bag of perfect apricots? Thanks for the recipe--I'll be giving it a try today!

11:18 AM, June 28, 2007  
Blogger Audra said...

The cake looks delicious! Really enjoyed this post. You are a great writer!

1:46 PM, June 28, 2007  
Blogger Lady What Lunches said...

Molly - I made this cake yesterday and it is delicious! Thank you!

My apricots were fairly mediocre grocery store ones and it still turned out well.

I did Robyn's trick with the parchment paper - clipping it into the spring base to keep it tight - and it worked wonders.

Keep up the good work!

8:45 AM, June 29, 2007  
Blogger Kimmie said...

Bureau of Missing Days...you cracked me up!

I really enjoyed your post...thanks for sharing the recipe...not sure if I can jump out of bed and bake (seeing images of my robe flaming??) I can do the unbrushed hair part no problem!

Kimmie
mama to 6
one homemade and 5 adopted
come by and meet us ;-)

7:50 PM, June 29, 2007  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I love it when the necessary ingredients to make one of your recipes just happen to be sitting on my kitchen counter. I made the cake into 12 minicakes in a silicone cupcake tray. It worked pretty damn well. They were delicious with hearts of jammy acpricot. The only possible stumbling block may be that some of the acricots were completely swallowed by batter, and when they werent, the little cakes sunk slightly in the middle. Still pretty enough to serve to guests.

7:58 AM, June 30, 2007  
Blogger benas said...

Apricot season is upon us, and they do reach their full potential in the oven... I just had make this. http://floatingnib.blogspot.com/

8:41 AM, June 30, 2007  
Blogger Shira said...

This morning I bought some golf-ball sized Provencal apricots from my market (the Aligre in the 11th). Sadly my landlady and I are engaged in an ongoing dispute regarding my non-functioning oven, but I'm hoping that ice cream will compensate for the absence of cake.

12:03 PM, June 30, 2007  
Anonymous Rama said...

I tried this torte and it came out really well, even though I used canned apricots. It is winter here in Johannesburg so no fresh apricots. The torte rose to completely cover the apricots though, so it didnt look like the one in the photo but it was light and yummy. Tx for the recipe.

12:20 PM, June 30, 2007  
Anonymous Julie said...

Hey Molly-molly,

You've been much in my thoughts of late. Having been through it all so recently myself, I know what this "coming-into-the-home-stretch" phase feels like. You're doing a gorgeous job of handling it all, clearly.

I love doing variations of Marian Burros' plum torte. My fave is a browned-butter nectarine version; I'm also fond of a pineapple-pecan upside-down one that I devised a while ago. Being a serious devotee of apricots, I will have to give this one a whirl as well.

10:57 AM, July 01, 2007  
Blogger Molly said...

Hello out there! Whew. I've just emerged from a few days of planning and playing with my mom and Brandon, and I see that I've missed quite a bit of activity over here! So glad you approve of my little apricot offering! My mom and Brandon did too, I'm happy to report. Between the three of us, we polished it off pretty darn fast. Yum.

At any rate, just wanted to say thank you for all these sweet comments. You guys really are the best. A few quick words:

Leah, thanks for the tip on Frog Hollow's pastries! Yeow! I had no idea they even made such things! I won't miss 'em next time.

Leanne, you've got it! It was indeed the olive fougasse from Tall Grass. It's so, so good. Six dollars, but so good.

Hillary, that makes me so happy! Thank you.

Ooooh, Victoria, thanks for the tip on Cook's Illustrated! I'll have to pick up a copy...

Kirsten, the Phinney market is great. It's much smaller than some of the other ones, but a few of my favorite vendors are there, and it is awfully nice to gear up for the weekend with farmers' market wares. Hope to see you there!

So glad you liked it, Lady What Lunches! Hip, hip!

Anonymous, I love the idea of making mini cakes with this recipe. I'll have to remember that for next time...

Rama, I'm so glad to know that canned apricots will work in a pinch. That's odd, though, that the batter rose so much and covered the apricots. I haven't had that happen with this recipe before. Harumph! Glad it still tasted good...

Julie, so good to hear from you, my dear! I've thought of you often lately, as I wade through the final weeks of planning. Wish you could hop over and do some baking with me! I might just have to do one of your browned-butter nectarine numbers and toast you with a forkful from afar. xo

10:12 PM, July 01, 2007  
Anonymous thehomelyyear said...

Hi, we love apricots and peaches. Noreen has a peach tree growing in the greenhouse in our rather cold area of the UK - that is the Peak District. We also love baking. Your cake looks absolutely yummy. We'll keep reading your blog. You're welcome to visit us at www.thehomelyyear.blog.co.uk

12:40 PM, July 02, 2007  
Anonymous Caroline said...

You are somethin' baking up a tart like this with fresh apricots. YUMMY.

6:44 PM, July 02, 2007  
Anonymous Katie said...

I made made this today for a summer brunch, and it was the perfect way to finish off the meal in a not too sweet, summery way. Absolutely delicious! Thank you!

4:20 PM, July 08, 2007  
Blogger Emily said...

Usually my family humors me when I cook for them. I made this for dessert on the 4th, and not only did my mom ask for the recipe . . . she asked for seconds!!!! Thank you for another great recipe to add to my reptoire.

6:31 AM, July 09, 2007  
Anonymous Megan said...

oh, thank you, molly. delicious, big hit. i tucked in some halved cherries, too, to make a complete stone fruit cake, and it ended up being "stone fruit surprise" b/c the batter rose up over them and were only revealed upon cutting.

10:31 AM, July 09, 2007  
Blogger Molly said...

Thanks for all the great feedback, ladies! So glad you've made and enjoyed the cake. Hoooray!

9:34 AM, July 13, 2007  
Blogger Shaun said...

Molly - I recently made this cake, and it turned out really well. I greased my vessel though because I just couldn't stand the idea of anything unnecessarily sticking - the almonds have a drying effect anyway. I switched out the apricots for the almonds and added bitter almond extract. It was a cinch to make and a dream to eat. Cheers!

3:40 PM, July 21, 2007  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I hate to be a downer, but this recipe didn't work for me. While baking, about a 1/2 cup of butter oozed out of the springform pan (fewer calories!)onto the floor of the oven and started burning and smoking up the house. Then the cake still stuck to the parchment paper. Haven't tasted it yet, but I think I did something wrong.

1:39 PM, July 28, 2007  
Blogger Apricotta said...

I made this cake with some pluots. It was perfect. The pluots were a little tart, which made a nice contrast with the rich cake.

I think I'm going to try making this with cherries next.

3:41 PM, July 29, 2007  
Blogger Lisa said...

Molly, this blog is such a wonderful resource - you know that, yes? Take me, right now, for example, with an enormous bowl of apricots on the counter from yesterday's morning market, a free-ish afternoon because it's a holiday, and a strong desire to do something unrelated to farming. I come here ... et voila!

I'll report back.

8:15 AM, July 04, 2008  
Blogger Lisa said...

Yummy scrummy, lady. Even the fella, with his absent sweet tooth, murmured in delight. I love how the apricots oozed syrup into the cake. And I think I know what's for breakfast.

8:08 PM, July 04, 2008  
Blogger Lisa said...

Delicious cold, with piping hot coffee.

6:39 AM, July 05, 2008  
Blogger Molly said...

Lisa, you are the cutest. Did you know that? Also, did you save me a piece? And some coffee? I certainly hope so.

11:16 AM, July 05, 2008  
Blogger Lisa said...

There will always be a cup of coffee here for you. I am enamored of hot drinks, and I think it's because of a passage in A Tree Grows in Brooklyn -- I think I mentioned that once upon a time in some comment here.

I'm afraid I ate the whole torte my own damn self, minus the one wedge Ali had the first night -- had the last bit while driving to market early yesterday morning, and only dropped jammy apricot on myself twice.

But no fear. I'm about to tackle an orange and chocolate version of your yogurt cake, and if you can get here in time for tomorrow's potluck...

6:58 AM, July 07, 2008  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

When an apricot is good is when you are 10 years old sitting in the tree eating them right off the branches until you pop or your cousin gets the runs. I have NEVER found one even close but dang it every year I try.

Charr

9:38 AM, April 14, 2009  

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