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8.27.2010

But then

I can’t believe we haven’t talked about berry cobbler yet. August 27, and we haven’t talked about berry cobbler. I’ve got to fix that.



For a long time, I didn’t get terribly excited about cobbler. I think you’re either a cobbler person or a crisp person, the same way that you’re either a cake person or a pie person. My mother is a crisp person, and that’s what I grew up eating. I can be swayed by crumbles as well, mostly because they’re often indistinguishable from crisps, and also because crumble is such a nice word for a dessert. It sounds exactly like it tastes. (On a side note: did you know that French speakers pronounce it crum-bell? It’s awesome. I’m pretty sure Crum Bell is related to Tinker Bell, only she dresses a lot frumpier.) But more generally, in the matter of cobbler versus crisp, I lean consistently in the direction of crisp. It’s hard to beat anything involving streusel.

But then.


I met my friend Hannah a few years ago, and one day not long after, one completely normal day that was not even remotely near my birthday or any other holiday or special occasion, she gave me a copy of Chez Panisse Desserts. It was a first-edition copy, no less, a hardcover with the original Wayne Thiebaud jacket! I still feel a little faint when I think about it. Hannah didn’t know this at the time, but I had learned about Wayne Thiebaud in high school, and I loved his work so much that I bought a Wayne Thiebaud calendar and a Wayne Thiebaud day planner and spent most of a semester attempting to imitate him, outlining the objects in my paintings with thick, brightly colored strokes, and as a result, making a lot of regrettable artwork that now resides in a landfill somewhere. I loved Wayne Thiebaud. I loved this cookbook.

It had been her grandmother’s, Hannah told me. When Hannah was a kid, she used to spend weekends at her grandmother’s house. Sometimes she would try on her grandmother’s jewelry, and sometimes they would sit on the couch together, Hannah’s head on her grandmother’s lap, watching Julia Child, or Doctor Who, or golf. Hannah tells me that her grandmother would scratch her back as long as she wanted without ever complaining, which, as everybody knows, is the universal sign of a first-rate person. Sometimes the two of them would cook together. Hannah’s grandmother would stand her up at the kitchen counter on an upturned two-gallon bucket and let her help to measure, pour, and stir. Her grandmother had a huge collection of cookbooks, and I think Hannah would like me to put special emphasis on the adjective huge. It was huuuuuge. A few years ago, her grandmother began getting rid of some of her possessions, making her life a little smaller, and she told Hannah that she should take some of the cookbooks. Hannah went through the titles and, naturally, took home a stack of Julia Child books. She also spotted Chez Panisse Desserts, and she thought I might be able to do some good with it. So she took it home, and then she gave it to me. I keep it on the shelf next to the stove, and whenever I see it, I think of Hannah’s grandmother. I will probably never meet her, but I like to think that we know each other now somehow, that we’re connected in some small way. I wonder if she is a cobbler person or a crisp person.



A couple of weeks ago, I had a surplus of berries lying around and felt like baking. I pulled out Chez Panisse Desserts. I opened it up to the berry chapter, and the first recipe was for a simple cobbler. I guess I could have kept looking, poking around for a crisp or a cake or something else, but this cobbler sounded right. It sounded honest, not at all flashy, just a biscuit-like dough enriched with butter and cream, baked over sugared berries. There were no unusual flavorings or spices or flours or grains. I liked that. I liked that it was confident in its simplicity. So I tried it.

I know there are a million recipes out there for cobbler, and that what the world probably wants is some kind of new and different spin on the concept, but that’s not what this recipe is about. It doesn’t reinvent anything, and it’s not going to tie your shoes for you. That’s not what it’s meant to do. It’s meant to be an excellent cobbler, and it is. The topping is both light and rich, the way a good biscuit should be, and the fruit is only gently sweetened, its juices barely bound up with a spoonful of flour. It gets everything right. You could serve it warm with a splash of cold cream, or you could eat it warm with nothing, and the next day, you can stand at the counter and eat it from the pan, the way I did. In return, it made a cobbler person of me.


***

Quick housekeeping:
This Tuesday night, August 31, we’re cooking a "family dinner" at Delancey. It’s a multi-course, family-style, prix-fixe meal with matching wines, and there are still a few seats left! You can find more information and buy a ticket at Brown Paper Tickets. We’d love to cook for you.

***


Berry Cobbler
Adapted from Chez Panisse Desserts, by Lindsey R. Shere

Lindsey Shere was Chez Panisse’s original pastry chef, and I love her style. She approaches even the simplest desserts with elegance and great precision. This cobbler is a good example of that.

The original version of this recipe calls for boysenberries, blueberries, and raspberries. I make it with roughly 3 cups of blueberries and 1½ cups of raspberries, and I love the flavor that results. I think I’ll be sticking with that combination for a while, although I might be tempted to work in some blackberries. The only berries that don’t work so nicely here are strawberries. The texture gets weird: spongy and slimy, a little reminiscent of a jellyfish. Oh, and if you’re using frozen berries, I recommend thawing them at least partially, or else they take a little longer to cook.

For fruit:
4½ cups berries of your choice, fresh or frozen
1/3 cup sugar
1 to 1½ Tbsp. all-purpose flour

For cobbler dough:
1½ cups all-purpose flour
3/8 tsp. table salt
1½ Tbsp. sugar
2¼ tsp. baking powder
6 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter
¾ cup whipping cream

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Toss the berries with the sugar and flour. Use the larger amount of flour if the berries are very juicy. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine the dry ingredients for the cobbler dough. Using your fingers or a pastry blender, cut in the butter until the mixture looks like coarse cornmeal. Add the cream and mix lightly, until the dry ingredients are just moistened. [You can prepare the dry ingredients and butter up to a few days ahead, storing it in the refrigerator. The cream should not be added until you’re ready to bake.]

Put the berry mixture into a 1½-quart baking dish. Scoop up lumps of dough and form into rough patties, 2 to 2½ inches in diameter and about ½ inch thick. I find that the dough is a little sticky, so it helps to moisten my hands with a little water. Arrange the dough patties on top of the berries. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the topping is set and lightly browned and the berry juices bubble thickly around the edges of the dish.

Serve warm, with cream to pour over.

Note: This cobbler keeps well at room temperature for about two days. (I don’t like to refrigerate it, because the texture of the topping changes.) Rewarm it gently, if you want, before serving.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

117 Comments:

Anonymous Amber said...

yum - sounds delicious...and wish we lived a bit closer to come to Delancey for our anniversary - that dinner sounds divine!

1:04 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous Coco @ Opera Girl Cooks said...

This recipe looks truly wonderful. I love the restrained amount of sugar used here -- beautiful summer berries hardly need any help to shine! Of course Chez Panisse would get that right.

1:30 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous my little expat kitchen said...

Cobbler... I like the word but never eaten the dessert. I have to try it, soon!
Thanks Hannah's grandmother and Molly :)
Magda

2:19 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger jana said...

such a sweet story!

2:56 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger pom. said...

What a fantastic story!! I always love hearing about your friend, Hannah, because it's like those songs that have cities in them and so when I hear about Hannah I feel connected like Oh, Yay - Kansas City!! Like me! even though she's not here anymore -- KC!

Also, what a fantastic recipe - perfect for using up some of the bountiful blackberries from my mom's house where she has a big, fat row of heavy blackberry bushes - a kind with no thorns which feels a little like cheating when we pick those berries.

3:16 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger newlywed said...

Love hearing about anyone with a huge cookbook collection...makes me feel...better...about mine :) As though it is not alone! This looks lovely. Clearly I need to eat more cobblers and crisps because I don't think I know which one I lean towards!

3:18 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous Jessica @ How Sweet said...

That berry cobbler looks fabulous!

3:32 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger monica said...

cobblers, crisps, grunts, betty's, buckles, slumps, pandowdy, clafouti...love them all!!! I agree the berries are the star of the show and should be kept simple, just a little contrasting crunch so that they dance well together.
I like this recipe, thanks.

3:34 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Jennifer Jo said...

I've completely fallen in love with cobbler this summer, but of the peach variety. I think I've made it a half dozen times. (http://bit.ly/9TAoVk) Like yours, it's quite simple, but the kicker (for me, anyway) is the brown sugar in both the fruit and biscuit, and the addition of cornmeal to the biscuit. I swoon just thinking of it...

3:38 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous A Plum By Any Other Name said...

I am fully confident in Crum Bell's crumble-making abilities. I love a good fairy, but can we really expect Tinker Bell to be good at desserts? (Look at the size of her.) Now, if only I could ring a bell and have this dessert made! Thanks, Molly, for sharing your wealth of recipes on food ... and life!

3:49 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger linda said...

dear molly,
you as well…you approach every word of every post with elegance and great precision.
love your writings & recipes.
wishing you & delancey all the best!

3:53 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous Victoria said...

I absolutely love that cookbook. The recipes are simple and elegant without being austere, just like the recipes in Alice Medrich's Pure Dessert.

My favorite preserves are Queens Blend by Hafi. It is a combination of red raspberries (there are black raspberries) and wild blueberries, and they are delicious, so I know this is a wonderful combination. I keep threatening to use them in a linzertorte instead of just raspberry, but so far I haven't.

There are still raspberries and blueberries at the farmstand upstate, and that book stands in a line of my most loved, so I will put it from the shelf and check it out - then follow your adaptation.

We started listening to the Audible version of your book in the car on the way home from the country last Sunday, and it is great - I just wish you were reading it!

Have fun at your family dinner. It sounds like great fun.

3:57 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous Katharine @ agirlinmadrid.com said...

Oh, I cannot wait to finally visit Delancey someday. Hopefully this winter when we make a trek across the pond, we'll see if we might be able to snag a seat or two. LOVE the 'family dinner' idea!

4:23 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous Julie @ Willow Bird Baking said...

HA I love Crum Bell. I'm pretty sure that's the "Bell" I would be :)

Looks lovely!

4:53 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Mama Urchin said...

I am a total cobbler person, I do like apple crisp in Autumn though.

5:22 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Cara said...

I am ashamed to say that I have never had a "cobbler" but that may have to change ASAP! Looks delish!!

5:37 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger kristina - no penny for them said...

i've got to try this.

and a slightly silly question: what is the difference between a fruit cobbler, a fruit pie and a fruit crumble? just the (consistency of the) dough?

5:56 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Liza said...

Lovely recipe...added to the dose of nostalgia about a back-scratching grandma...ours did that too. Thanks.

5:59 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous Cara Mae said...

I am so very glad that infinite, selfless back scratching has finally been called out as it should be. Things like flowers and chocolate get way too much press, turning their niceness into mundanity and ignoring other gifts universally accepted as marvelous. Like back scratching.

6:07 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Brandi said...

I can't believe I haven't been berry picking yet this year. Peaches, yes. Corn, yes. Berries, no! I think that should provide me with an overabundance of raspberries -- maybe even some blackberries -- to make this cobbler. I like the word cobbler too. There's something so warm about it, like it just wants to break into joyous fireworks of berry delight across your tongue. I also think I need to take a trip up to Seattle and indulge in several of Delancey's pizzas. Soon, I keep telling myself.

6:29 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Ciao Chow Linda said...

Your writing always makes me smile. And that recipe - well, it's a keeper. Who can find fault with a Chez Panisse dessert?

6:35 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Jasmine said...

I've been reading your blog for about two years, and I think this is the first time I've commented.

But I just had to. I've been meaning to get your book since I first heard about it, but a friend recently saved me by getting it for me as a birthday gift. I finished it last night and I just wanted to let you know how much I loved it. I consumed it so quickly and was sad to reach the last page. What a marvelous book. I can't wait to try some of the recipes.

6:41 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous Becca said...

Mmmm. This looks aMAZING, and I love that the crust is a little biscuit-y.

Becca

6:46 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger fleurblanc said...

I often make cobblers as it is a great way to use up berries from the garden. I also love the smell of cooked berries, raspberries in particular, such a comforting aroma. I usually sprinke demerara sugar on the top which gives it a bit of a crunch & then serve hot straight from the oven with homemade custard or vanilla ice cream - yum!!!

6:59 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Zoomie said...

I have cookbook envy - Wayne Thiebaud is one of my very favorite artists, too. If you ever get tired of it...

7:04 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger kenzie said...

Hi Molly! I definitely grew up as a crisp girl, and the only cobblers I ever ate were a gerry-rigged with yellow cake mix and 7-up in a dutch oven. (not saying it didn't taste awesome) I need to give cobbler a chance.

7:16 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous JillS. said...

Looks lovely. You are so right... sometimes you don't want a recipe to stand up and do tricks - just be a really great, simple cobbler! I do think I like your berry combination better so will try it with that.

7:21 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Anna said...

I think I've been a crisp person, not because I have anything against cobblers, just because I didn't really know about them. Thanks for sharing, I will have to give cobbler a try.

7:25 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Jen said...

Sounds wonderful! Wish I had this recipe about a week ago after my husband and son came home with buckets of blackberries from Discovery Park!

7:41 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger The Yellow Door Paperie said...

So delicious. Love berries.

7:51 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous Stephanie said...

i LOVE your blog, and your column in Bon Appetit- it's the first thing i flip to when the magazine arrives at my home. i'm a crisp person as well, but am going to have to make this cobbler and see if i can't be swayed.

7:54 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger donna baker said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

8:09 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Raegan said...

Hi Molly! I love your blog and your book, and I re-read portions of it and cook from it all the time. I've been on the hunt for more similarly inspiring, elegantly written memoirs, but with no luck. I'm glad you're still writing your blog! I'm coming a bit late to the granola party, but I wanted to share my recipe (actually, a friend of my mother's recipe) for granola with you. This one is pretty high-yield, so it should last a bit longer than yours, since you eat it every day (as do I):

8 c. oatmeal, 3/4 c. packed brown sugar, 1 1/2 c. wheat germ, 1 c. flaked coconut (I use the unsweetened kind, like Bob's Red Mill), 1 1/2 c. mixed nuts (I used 50/50 almonds and cashews), 1/2 c. veg oil, 1/2 c. honey, 2 tsp. vanilla. Combine the last three ingredients and heat until bubbly. Pour over combined dry ingredients and mix. Bake on two greased cookie sheets, uncovered, in 325 degree oven for 15-20 min., until coconut is lightly browned. Stir twice while baking, and while cooling. Store in an airtight container and enjoy!

8:28 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger The French said...

What does it mean if you don't care whether it's cobbler, crisp or crumble...cake or pie? Guess it means I need to go for a run.

Love the story about her grandma. Reminds me of my Grandma Elsie who would scratch my arm for hours. Nothin' beats a Grandma. Not even a cobbler:)

8:56 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger mosey said...

Would you stop shaking the foundations of my safe little world. I've been happy (so happy) to be a crisp girl til now - strawberry/rhubarb if you please.

And now this. Really.

9:00 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous Jen said...

I think I'm a cobbler, crisp, and crumble person. cheers to all 3.

9:04 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous molly said...

Dr. Who. Golf. Julia Child. What a woman. I'm a little dubious she could squeeze in unlimited backscratching, and not be an official saint of sorts.

Firmly crisp, I am. But maybe, just maybe...

9:18 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger tomily said...

hi, molly.
both links were very interesting.
as i'm not familiar with this type of sweets very much, i'm kinda amazed to know how much potentiality the same ingredients can have!
maybe i should try each of them and have my own opinion and preference for the cobbler family. :)
btw, lovely pictures as always!
love how deep the berries' red is.

9:32 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Joy said...

I'm generally a crisp type person but that looks wonderful.

10:13 AM, August 27, 2010  
OpenID Ellen said...

ummmmm i love love love love love Chez Panisse Desserts to death! I love how they are grouped, by herby things to berry things to things with wines in them- all by the character of the thing, not just by it's format (pie, cake, etc). ANDDD I, too, love the Wayne Thiebaud cover! I have long coveted his delicious desserty art...much as I covet the copy of Chez Panisse Desserts I had checked out from the library, and regretfully returned last week. Anyway, great post as always. It's cobblertime, forthwith!

10:20 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Funnelcloud Rachel said...

Cobbler or crisp? Cake or pie? Yes, please, I love them all!

That being said, the only one of the bunch that I've never made is a cobbler and I think you've just inspired me to do so!

10:24 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger margie said...

I'm definitely a crisp person - I've actually never made cobbler. I've eaten it several times (always peach, it seems), and it just doesn't seem to have the textural zip of crisps.

That berry juice does look delicious, though - I love blueberries and raspberries together.

10:32 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger PalmerGal said...

Oh, I totally want a ticket. If only we lived closer to Seattle! The cobbler looks delicious.

10:43 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous John @ Dooba Reviews said...

The joke about Crum Bell made my day! Maybe it's because we can't seem to get enough of Tinker Bell at our house

11:47 AM, August 27, 2010  
Anonymous Jessica said...

Love this cobbler. I've used up my berries for the year (sniff) but on the bright side, it will soon be time to pick some apples! Yum.

jessyburke88@gmail.com

11:50 AM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger amisha said...

molly, what do you think of making this with cherries? i've got a big bag of sweet cherries at home right now that are asking to be made into something lovely, and i think this might be the thing.
xo
p.s. your photos in this post are breathtaking.

12:54 PM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger vagabondtramp said...

Do you often have these "family dinners"? I would love to attend but I won't be in Seattle on the 31st. Hopefully you will do more of these events.

1:46 PM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger FoodieNextDoor said...

I didn't learn the difference between cobblers and crisps until recently, and so for the longest time I was serving crisps to my friends and calling them "cobblers."

But if you think about it, cobblers are pretty brilliant. They're upside-down pies, and the "crust" never gets soggy from the filling!

2:46 PM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger hannah said...

knowing my grandmother (and Lady Julia's) opinions on butter and cream, i can say with confidence that she would love this cobbler.
you are the best molly. xoxox

3:21 PM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Denise | Chez Danisse said...

I like the simplicity of this recipe "no unusual flavorings or spices or flours or grains." But if it's not going to tie my shoes, forget it ;)

4:20 PM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Ashlae said...

I am more of a crisp person, as well. I loved your recipe; simple and delicious. Although I substituted agave for the sugar, and added a bit of cornstarch to make up for the fact I was using a liquid sweetener.

5:15 PM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger cottonjens said...

I was mesmerized in the 1980s by Thiebaud's gloopy brightly different cheerfully exacting paintings - emphasizing paint, along with Richard Diebenkorn, a very different but wonderful CA painter~

7:24 PM, August 27, 2010  
OpenID sohdalex said...

This sounds delicious! A purely simple summer dessert. I have never considered it before, but I guess when given the choice, I would always choose a crisp over cobbler. You have me second guessing now...

9:26 PM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger donna baker said...

I meant, you didn't have to pick berries from the mean ladie's fence?

9:32 PM, August 27, 2010  
Blogger Patty said...

If you have leftover cobbler--I know, unlikely--you can have it for breakfast with yogurt. Ours was made by my mother for a dinner party and it was blueberry-peach. Yum! It started my day off with a smile.

3:59 AM, August 28, 2010  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I loved the part about the grandmother's cookbook. I have several items that belonged to my friends' mothers and I have them on a book shelf with my mom's picture. Some of these mothers I never met, but I feel like I am honoring them for raising the great daughters that became my friends.

6:08 AM, August 28, 2010  
Blogger Sara said...

Thank you for reminding me that I need to look at my Chez Panisse desserts cookbook agaiin!

7:42 AM, August 28, 2010  
Anonymous Edie said...

Just reading this makes me hungry. My grandmother used to make amazing cobblers in the summertime when when we would visit. The kids would pick big buckets of berries and then she would magically transform them into this scrumptious treat. I can still smell that aroma wafting through the big rambling house. I know what I am making today.

7:59 AM, August 28, 2010  
Blogger hmstrjam said...

love cobbler! and cobbler loves me!

8:09 AM, August 28, 2010  
Anonymous mary said...

oh no. i just made your scones, then i saw this post. now i have to make this tonight. I have all these fresh berries just waiting to be consumed in some manner or other.

9:47 AM, August 28, 2010  
Blogger Daniela said...

It's hard to believe, but I only recently found your blog. Selfishly, it was because I started my own "food themed" blog. I post cooking webisodes every Friday and was wondering if you would mind if I make one from one of the recipes you have shared over the years? Maybe even this delicious looking cobbler!
http://chefuality.blogspot.com

1:02 PM, August 28, 2010  
Anonymous Katie@Cozydelicious said...

I have always been a crisp person. But this cobbler looks lovely. I will hav eto give cobbler another try!

1:39 PM, August 28, 2010  
Anonymous jill said...

Ha, I also thought I was a crisp, not a cobbler, person until I stopped recently at the 19-Mile House on my drive back to I-5 from Mt. St. Helens. Their cobbler is divine in a homespun way, with a slightly crispy crust. (I think the seasonal huckleberry ice cream helped, too.) I try not to plug my blog on others, but I just blogged about it at Pacific Northwest Seasons.

2:27 PM, August 28, 2010  
Blogger Paula said...

This is on my weekends "to-do" list! Sounds dreamy!

5:33 PM, August 28, 2010  
Anonymous Kimberly said...

Oh, cobbler, cobbler, cobbler . . . Growing up in the South, cobbler is a staple for dessert, and I consider myself lucky to have eaten so much of it in my lifetime!
When me and my brother and sister used to visit my grandmother in Memphis, TN, she'd make us peach cobbler and blackberry cobbler (among many, many other desserts).
The best was the blackberry cobbler, because she'd let us grandkids pick the berries, so we felt like we contributed to the amazing and delicious dessert that resulted. So cobbler is not only one of my favorite desserts, but also reminds me of summers and family and so many other good and fun things from growing up.
Now, if I could only learn to make one myself. . . ; )

6:31 PM, August 28, 2010  
Anonymous Kristy said...

Finally we arrived @ Delancey all the way from Vashon Island! Pizza was delicious and the tomatoes and the olives and the wine and the company in your wonderful restaurant.
Congrats on your one year anniversary! We will be back!!!

6:44 PM, August 28, 2010  
Anonymous Katharine (Meal Muse) said...

Um. I'm a cobbler and a crumble person. What does that make me?

9:50 PM, August 28, 2010  
Anonymous foodintandem said...

This looks so good!!!
Actually, my mom always used to make my family an apple cobbler and it was really good too. Next week I will make this berry cobbler with her for our cousins.
oh, and do you recommend using other fruits for a cobbler except berries, and apples?
btw, your blog is really cool!!

~foodintandem

5:05 AM, August 29, 2010  
Blogger tony said...

This post has been on the right day! It it not quite quite september yet, but it feels like winter already! rain , rain , rain.....

I will make something very similary tonight with pears and raspberries and a crumble topping with ginger. It is in an American cookbook but it is called a pandowdy. I guess it is pretty much well a cobbler.

Do you know?

happy eating!

9:22 AM, August 29, 2010  
Blogger la ninja said...

"crum-bell" indeed. visiting a friend in paris this summer, at a restaurant, someone mentioned ordering "crum-bell" and I couldn't understand them. then, when I repeated it in a sort of "oh... cruuuumble" relieved way, I reckon they thought I was a pretentious prick ;)

oh well... potato-potato, crum-bell-crumble.

2:19 PM, August 29, 2010  
Anonymous Foodelf said...

If I could only have one dessert cookbook, this would be it. My copy is well-used, a bit splattered and very loved. A fave is the apricot and cherry tart on page 156. I make it annually when both fruits are in season.

My copy is also Wayne Thiebaud one and, after reading your post - I've just discovered that it is also a first edition making it even more beloved.

Foodelf

5:25 PM, August 29, 2010  
Anonymous Gabriel Hummel said...

Dear god I love berries, your recipe looks so tantalizing that I would likely mane a nearby table of a people at a restaurant for just a taste.

7:21 PM, August 29, 2010  
Anonymous Bridget Davis (@bridget_cooks) said...

That berry cobbler looks divine!!

Thank you

7:22 PM, August 29, 2010  
Anonymous Baker Bo said...

I made the cobbler last night with 16 oz. bag of frozen mixed berries from Trader Joe's that I had in the freezer and baked it in a 10-inch glass pie dish. It was delicious - just sweet enough to bring out the berry flovors. The dough transformed into flaky and tender biscuits. As you said, it was still delicious the next day for breakfast.

7:48 PM, August 29, 2010  
Blogger Anil P said...

I like the name. The first time I've heard it. The story weaving Hannah into it makes for a wonderful read. Could imagine the upturned bucket in the kitchen. More power to the granny in the scheme of growing up.

9:03 PM, August 29, 2010  
Blogger Lindsey @ FRESH AIR + FRESH FOOD said...

Looks D'Lish! I love crisp too and usually find cobbler disappointing. That is until my Uncle David's cobbler - pour boiling water over sugar sprinkled dough just before baking. Sooooo tasty! Oh but your cobbler looks good enough to be tried! And by the way. I do believe you don't have to be an either or person . . .for I am an "and" person! Pie and cake please!

11:16 PM, August 29, 2010  
Blogger Beth said...

I'm probably more of a crisp person, but I do love crisps too. Fruit desserts are the best!

2:03 AM, August 30, 2010  
Blogger tweal said...

I don't think I've ever had cobbler. Now I'm inspired to make one... Also, I wish I lived near you so I could eat at Delancey - family style sounds so fun!

4:36 AM, August 30, 2010  
OpenID katieleigh said...

I am a cobbler person, and I love everything about this post. I'll have to try this recipe. Thanks, Molly!

8:05 AM, August 30, 2010  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Reading your blog is like therapy, Molly. I can't wait for you to write another book!

8:35 AM, August 30, 2010  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

my French relatives actually pronounce it 'grumbel'
and ribs are 'rips.'

9:50 AM, August 30, 2010  
Blogger christie said...

Molly - this was so delicious! Yesterday afternoon I drove around Seattle and picked blackberries and used them to make the cobbler last night. Such fun.

1:53 PM, August 30, 2010  
Blogger amee said...

delish! looks so yum!

2:41 PM, August 30, 2010  
Anonymous Juliann D said...

Thanks for another berry recipe. We still have 3 more gallon bags of blackberries filling our freezer (already eaten almost as many) and never tire of new ways to have them for dessert. Can't wait to bake this!

4:07 PM, August 30, 2010  
Anonymous tom | tall clover farm said...

Ah, the dichotomies of taste. Yep, I'm a crisp man, with a pie-trumps-cake back-up plan.

This recipe may just change my outlook. Thank you.

11:54 PM, August 30, 2010  
Anonymous delaney @ heartbreakpie said...

I am a crumble girl myself. I did a rhubarb, pear and ginger crumble recently and gosh it was tasty!

1:01 AM, August 31, 2010  
Blogger Faythe | Unsophisticated Coffee said...

I have always been one of the pie persuasion, and rarely make cakes. It occurs to me now that I have never tasted the wonder that is cobbler. Ever. I too have a marvelously tempting bounty of ripe berries in my kitchen. Thanks to you, I have found myself lured tempted, and inspired to give it a whirl. Soon.

2:46 PM, August 31, 2010  
Anonymous the constant hunger said...

I love grandmothers! Everyone has at least one cooking-with-grandma-in-the-kitchen memory. I must admit, I am a crisp person. However this simple recipe...I must try. Thanks!

4:22 PM, August 31, 2010  
Blogger frances said...

just made this (mix of red & golden raspberries + blackberries) for my husband, sister, brother in law, and mother. mom said they were the best biscuits ever, and i concur. fabulous! and there's one serving left for breakfast.

8:13 PM, August 31, 2010  
Blogger Lisa G said...

Lovely story and wonderful recipe! I went to Chez Panisse for the first time a few weeks ago, after living in the Bay Area for 10 years. Happily, it proved that it's amazing reputation is well deserved.

9:13 PM, August 31, 2010  
Blogger Gabrielle said...

this looks delicious! here in NY though the berries and peaches arrived early and ended early, I'm so sad that berry season is over already! the good thing though is that apples are coming up soon! any fresh suggestions for updating apple cobbler?

8:13 AM, September 01, 2010  
Blogger Alida said...

I just got your book A Homemade Life and have almost completely devoured it in two days. That's quite a triumph considering I homeschool and am smack in the middle of promoting a new business. I had to come check out you blog!! It's lovely and as a bonus I see you own a restaurant. We are already making plans to visit from Oregon. Wishing you much continued success.

8:55 AM, September 01, 2010  
Blogger Liz said...

It was such a pleasure to get to meet you at the IFBC this past weekend, and because of that introduction, I finally raise the courage to reply to one of your elegant and poetic posts. I'd already posted this new memory over at Epicurious, before seeing that you'd posted on cobbler, too, here. In the spirit that blogging is about sharing, I add my thoughts here, too.

Somehow I'd gone my whole life without making a cobbler, the last ten years of it living next to a blackberry bramble. Last week my son and I took matters in hand and filled the autumnal printed bowl (that usually only comes out for Halloween candy handouts) with juicy blackberries, so sun-ripened that they fell off like little soft puffballs of sweetness at the touch of his purple fingers. Those berries that made it the twenty feet to my kitchen ended up bubbling under biscuit dough sprinkled with pearl sugar. Eaten with vanilla ice cream that night, that cobbler has become a family memory. We won't be waiting another ten years for the next one.

--Liz Heldmann

9:16 AM, September 01, 2010  
Blogger alexandra grecco said...

! xo

11:57 AM, September 01, 2010  
Blogger michaela said...

i think i'm a crips kinda girl. made blackberry and peachh ones yesterday.

the country dinner at delancey was delicious and so much fun! the lamb was my favorite part.

4:15 PM, September 01, 2010  
Blogger kate mcgill said...

this was my first cobbler to make in my life and it was a breeze to make. between my neighbors and husband and myself it was quickly consumed within an hour! LOVED it and will make it again - thank you! (and i made it with local raz and blackberries)

9:10 AM, September 02, 2010  
Blogger AmyDishes said...

I'm definitely a crisp and pie person! But this recipe sounds so inviting -- all of yours do, in fact, because of the lovely tales you weave around them. :) XO and miss you!!

9:43 AM, September 02, 2010  
Blogger *Chic Provence* said...

Delicious! love the crisp..and your blog, I just discovered, is wonderful!!! Love Chez Panisse...I hope you visited the Ferry Building market place herein SF when you were down here..spent the day adoring local foods there yesterday..fabulous!

cheers!

Kit

10:39 AM, September 02, 2010  
Anonymous Gaby said...

Just came across your blog and I'm loving it.

I made a berry cobbler a few days ago, we had a little get together and I decided to make the dessert myself. I'm glad I did. I used blueberries, raspberries, blackberries and rhubarb, and it was SO delicious that, in order to keep some leftovers for ME the following day, I took it away from the table. Selfish.

I laughed (and almost cried) when I read that you ate it right from the pan, because that's what I did first thing Sunday morning.

Cheers!

3:12 PM, September 02, 2010  
Anonymous Mindy said...

Wish I could be at the family dinner - I love things like that. But Seattle is about as far from Orlando as you can get.... You're my favorite blog, hands down <3

6:17 AM, September 03, 2010  
OpenID onlinepastrychef said...

There's no rule that says you can't bake and crumble some streusel and then stir it into your fruit filling to make a cobbler/crisp. Or crisp-cobbler. You could also just sprinkle it on top of the batter.

Or, if you put the batter on the bottom and the fruit on the top followed by some streusel, the batter will bake up around the fruit while the streusel gets all crisp and wonderful.

Best of both worlds. As far as I'm concerned, you can never have too much topping! :)

7:06 AM, September 03, 2010  
Blogger Kelsey said...

Molly, you took the words right out of my mouth! I was all set to write about how I like crisps and crumbles better and how that might be disappointing to my relatives in Oklahoma. I went ahead and wrote my peach cobbler post anyway. I hope you like it!

http://kelseysappleaday.blogspot.com/2010/09/30-things-while-im-30-peach-and.html

3:57 PM, September 03, 2010  
Blogger Sue-Sue said...

Oh yum! I love anything that combines fruit with crusty goodness!

3:57 PM, September 03, 2010  
Anonymous Jessie said...

strangely, I've never made cobler before... apple cobler, berry cobler, plum cobler... I should really try!

8:42 AM, September 04, 2010  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Had to try this recipe after I read your post. My son is a big cobbler fan. Turned very very good but I have to admit I think Dorie Greenspan's recipe is slightly better. Give it a try!

9:08 AM, September 04, 2010  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

"Le Cobbler" jus got out of the oven, along with two huge cookies I made since I had too much dough. It looks and smells amazing. Love your blog by the way, my boyfriend is addicted to your bread salad with cherries, arugula and goat cheese (from your book). Cheers, Marie-Claude.

3:03 PM, September 04, 2010  
Blogger La Olis said...

Sunday, September 5th, 2010. Just catching up from my holidays and read this deli recipe. I'm planning to make it by the 16th of September due to the visit of my boyfriend, here in Berlin. I'll tell you, of course, how did it went. Can't wait to make it...!
Thanks for sharing...

5:33 AM, September 05, 2010  
OpenID Jo said...

I love cobbler - it makes me happy to see other people so excited about it! I grew up eating cobbler, and no one makes it better than my dad. The crisp vs cobbler debate depends entirely on the type of fruit, for me, and berries are perfect for cobbler. (So are peaches. Apples require crisp instead.)

7:17 PM, September 06, 2010  
Anonymous branchhomestead said...

While I'm wiping the tears away...I love this story about your friend Hannah! These are the brand of memories that I want my daughter to have of growing up. Life gets moving too fast ~ for what reward! Thanks for your lesson of the day. We will be having your cobbler this week on our slower path.

3:03 AM, September 07, 2010  
Anonymous Liscio's said...

What a great story, and fabulous-looking cobbler! Seems like a great end-of-summer treat!

9:10 AM, September 07, 2010  
Blogger Kristin Clark said...

Thanks for the recipe! Made it for our Labor Day BBQ and our friends loved it. So simple and yet so satisfying.

Also, I continue to make your banana bread recipe from your book and can't get over how delicious it is. The only bad part is that I keep eating the whole loaf myself (not in one day, mind you) which does not do much for my post-pregnancy diet plan.

8:42 AM, September 08, 2010  
Anonymous mary said...

Lovely photos.

11:43 AM, September 09, 2010  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I just took this out of the oven but used apples instead of berries. It is exactly what you said it is....an amazing cobbler recipe. Easy and straightforward. Sooooo good....thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (I have to admit I even liked eating a little of the raw dough ;)

1:29 PM, September 12, 2010  
Anonymous Marge - Dinnerware said...

I'm definitely a cobbler person. Love the pictures!

10:10 AM, September 28, 2010  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Molly/Lady Orangette....I just found out about you last month when I tried your spaghetti sauce and meatballs in Bon Appetite. I've made the recipe 3 times now....with the third time baking the meatballs separately....I can't get over how easy and delicious that recipe has been to use with my home grown and canned tomatoes....when I've told friends that there are no herbs or garlic in the sauce...they are confused....doesn't stop them from enjoying and eating it though ( chuckle). After reading a few entries on your blog...I had to get your book....I LOVE IT...You are my intro lady to the cooking blogs. Thanks for that gift...BUT thank you for a beautiful book. It's going to take me awhile to get through cooking things you've shared. I LOVE the family anecdotal approach....I'm a teacher...of 4th Graders...I'm thinking of having them write a narrative about a favorite dish they love to eat from their family...and then assemble it into a class book. ( Did you think you would inspire writing too ?!!!) Thanks again. Sincerely, Desert Dweller in Phoenix.

6:39 PM, October 19, 2010  
Anonymous sadie said...

you are the only person whose baking recipes i can actually trust and don't need to do a dress rehearsal before i make. any chance you have a trusted red velvet cake recipe you can point me towards? am making one for my mother-in-law for this weekend and don't know where to turn!

4:11 PM, October 20, 2010  
Blogger Molly said...

Sadie, I wish I could help you! But the only red velvet cake I've made didn't turn out particularly well. (It called for using the juice from a can of beets instead of red food coloring, and the cake wound up sort of muddy-looking, with a slightly weird flavor.) If I were you, I'd look to see if the people at Cook's Illustrated have a red velvet recipe. (If you aren't a member of their site, you can sign up for a free trial.) You might also see what The Joy of Cooking has in the way of red velvet cake. Those would be my go-tos!

9:05 PM, October 21, 2010  

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